The Hampton Smoker

Milk Is Bad For You

2012-01-28T21:10:00.001-05:00

A little electrocution: Smoke power

2011-12-08T21:32:00.002-05:00

This tune from the Cleveland pop guru, Bill Fox, manages to capture the melancholy I tend to feel like so many of his songs are capable of doing.

I haven't mentioned the power of smoke and bbq to transform the spirit recently. But the mere smell of a clean hickory fire with the faint whiff of spice and meat causes an actual physical response in the hungry. The mouth waters, the senses heighten, the need for action is transmitted through the spinal column from the brain. There've been studies.

I haven found it within myself to be able to preach the truth about the 'que in the longest of times, but I tell you I am a believer. I have seen bbq redeem lives, give second chances, create and destroy legends. There is destruction in the past, but with destruction always comes the possibility of hope.

I give you Ricky and Zach Parker of Scott's-Parker's Barbecue, Lexington, TN.

Don't be Cruel: BBQ Highlights

2011-08-22T01:12:00.001-04:00

Barbecue is cruel?! Did I say that?! I Think I did, actually....and I stand by it.

The Devil In Me: RUB BBQ East Meadow Open Today!!

2011-08-15T23:09:00.003-04:00

This just in: RUB BBQ 2367 Hempstead Turnpike, East Meadow, NY

Read About It In Newsday!

"Last week, RUB’s pitmaster Matt Fisher began firing up the smokers at RUB’s new location in East Meadow. Friends and family were served over the weekend and tonight at 5, RUB opens for business. “The pits are burning great,” reports Fisher. “Everything tastes just like in the city.”"

New RUB BBQ East Meadow, NY: Ooh-la-la!

2011-08-10T19:26:00.012-04:00

Wow...so, is this thing on?? It has been a while, no?

Ok, so, I am now the pitmaster of RUB BBQ in East Meadow, NY and Kitchen Manager/pitmaster in the flagship restaurant in Chelsea. I am thrilled to be a part of this organization and to have been able to cook alongside such fantastic chefs as Scott Smith and Paul Kirk and learn from them as well as the team of butchers, cooks and managers that the owner, Andrew Fischel, has assembled.

So, what next? Well, the new restaurant will be open in a matter of days, and then things will settle back down to normal. Meanwhile, there has been a little press involving yours truly recently in the form of:

An interview on Kingsford's Grilling.com website about urban grilling/queing and....

A piece on Page Six (the gossip pages!) in the New York Post that mentioned me....

I give you Ronnie Lane singing a song made more famous by Rod Stewart.

Thomas Keller: Show Me The Money!

2010-11-30T17:11:00.006-05:00

Thomas Keller talks about the economics of the food industry and the need to pay a fair, deserved price for goods and services in order to maintain a high standard for products and producers, whether they are farmers or cooks.

Star chef: Pay people what they're worth

New York (CNN) -- When chef Thomas Keller heard about the quality of seafood from a supplier in Maine, he wrote to the company's owner.

"Would you sell me lobsters," Keller recalled asking.

The answer was no.

"She wasn't interested in selling me lobsters because she didn't know who I was and what my standards are."

It took Keller two years to get his first shipment of lobsters from Ingrid Bengis, a Fulbright scholar who has had a career as a writer in addition to running her company, Ingrid Bengis Seafood.

Keller, who spoke at the TEDx East conference in New York earlier this month, talked about the network of suppliers he uses for his now acclaimed restaurants, including The French Laundry in Napa Valley and Per Se in New York -- the wild mushroom forager, the dentists who run a fruit farm, the banker who decided to raise lambs.

In an interview with CNN, Keller made the case for going to extraordinary lengths to get the best ingredients, for paying suppliers more and for paying restaurant staff well. He took issue with what he described as the economy's relentless drive for producing and selling goods more cheaply.

The formula has paid off for Keller, whose two leading restaurants have been recognized with the top ranking of three stars in the Michelin Guide. Of course, the food does not come at a bargain price. A nine-course prix fixe dinner at the French Laundry goes for $250.

A generation and a half ago, Keller said, the Department of Labor classified chefs as domestic help. Today being a chef is a profession, and for some, a route to celebrity status. In the public's mind, chefs are virtually superheroes, as Keller noted: "We go to the market in the morning...we cook it all, we don't eat we don't sleep, we barely breathe, we do everything, but that's not the case."

In reality, he said in the interview, it takes hundreds of dedicated people at restaurants and suppliers for a chef to be a success. Here's an edited transcript:

CNN: What are the secrets to success in your business?

Thomas Keller: Well there aren't really any secrets. I think, No. 1, it's creating relationships. That's very important. If you have a relationship with somebody you understand who they are, what they do, what their goals are. It's working together in a collaborative effort to elevate everybody.

No. 2, it's really about money, paying somebody what they're worth. We have a society today, especially in this country, which really kind of confuses me. -- when we want to have the very best and pay them the very least for it. Didn't your mother ever tell you -- you get what you pay for?

It is not my job to negotiate on price. It's my job to demand a high level of quality, and you have to work with somebody to raise that level of quality continuously. So we can have a better product and at the end of the day, pay them what it's worth. They need to be supported in so many ways, whether it's our fishermen or our farmers, our gardeners or our foragers.

CNN: Does it concern you that if you pay everybody what they're worth, your price hits the stratosphere?

Keller: In and of itself, yeah, does it concern me? It does and it doesn't. In one way we are supporting an amazing group of individuals who are working hard on changing the way things are done. Our lamber [Keith Martin] in Pennsylvania, for example, has established a protocol for the way his lambs are raised and fed. He has eight other farmers in western Pennsylvania and eastern Ohio who adopted his protocols.

He looks at the way he raises lambs in a holistic way. It is about the life of the animal, not the commodity it becomes after it's slaughtered. And typically the livestock industry looks at everything they do as a commodity, not an animal. So, we lose that connection with how to raise it.

I don't know how much Keith's lambs cost, I don't really get into that. I don't want to know. I just want to be able to support him and his quest to continue to really voice his concern and his vision about how to raise them, and hopefully that will change everybody. It has changed nine farmers so far, himself and eight of his co-workers, so it's great.

CNN: Does it concern you that you are dealing with the high-end, but maybe not having an impact on the mass market?

Keller: Yes and no. One way that we are able to accomplish dealing with more, I don't want to say masses, but certainly more people is that we were able to buy the entire lamb. And we'll use the luxury cuts, the rack and the saddle, at the French Laundry. But we'll use the legs at Bouchon and the shoulders at Ad Hoc.

So it affords us the ability to maintain a high level of standards for the product and utilize the entire animal. So The French Laundry is charging $250 for dinner, using Keith Martin's saddle of lamb. At Ad Hoc, it's $49 a dinner using Keith Martin's shoulder of lamb. It's the same animal, it's the same quality, just different economics.

CNN: In the world of food, are you encouraged by the trends that you see developing, the movement for more local foods?

Keller: Well, it's interesting because the generation before us, our parents and our grandparents, it was always local foods, right? I mean, it wasn't until really the refrigeration of boxed cars and the mobility to ship food around the country that changed the way we eat, changed what's available to us. My grandparents -- they all had a garden, they had fruit trees, they had most of the products around them.

The movement toward urban cultures and societies today has resulted in diminishing impact from local producers. You have to redefine local. To me, 15-20 years when I started thinking about local, local wasn't about geographical proximity. Local was about the quality of the product. My lobsters come from Maine, extraordinary lobsters; I get them every day in the restaurant.

It's really high quality products. You know they're right next door [to the supplier]. You're pulling it out of the ground or you're fishing it out of the sea right next to you.

Today, of course, you start to rethink what local means. This whole locavore movement, sustainability and all these different things, and we start to say, "OK, we are averse to using products that are being shipped across the country."

It's part of the [carbon] footprint, but I think about it in a different way because there has to be a balancing act. Someone like Keith Martin who I think is an extraordinarily important person, somebody who has a potential to have an impact on this industry, would be out of business if he had to survive on a local community of buyers. He wouldn't have been able to impact other farmers around him to embrace his protocol because they would have no market for their lamb.

Somebody like Ingrid Bengis in Maine who supplies us our lobsters works with the fishermen there. In Maine, they thrive because they are fishermen and they sell their wonderful fish around the country. I can name hundreds of people who really rely on not only local opportunities to sell their supplies but far-reaching ones, as well.

CNN: How do you combine that with a concern about sustainability?

Keller: Sustainability to me results in an industry that is able to re-establish itself over and over again without depleting from the earth, the air, things like that. I think the only problem with working with people like Ingrid or Keith is that carbon footprint that we've talked about. But I'm fine with knowing that I'm supporting somebody who is giving their community an extraordinary opportunity.

Sustainability is something we are always working toward. It's a really fine line because it is something that chefs really never thought about before. I mean our primary job is to get the best products we possibly could and serve them to you. Today there are so many people in the world that are vying for those ingredients, and there's only a certain amount of it.

So, we've depleted the world of good food. It's not because people don't recognize sustainability; people were hungry for bluefin tuna. There were so many of them that we just ate it all up. So really the answer is what? Fewer people. That's what I believe. How do you sustain a wild fish? Well, you have to stop fishing; you have to watch what you are taking out. How do you feed the demand for that fish? You don't.

CNN: If you could change American attitudes toward food in any way, how would you do it?

Keller: I think what I said earlier about them being willing to pay for products. To really support the farmers and fisherman. That's the one thing that I would really want them to do. It's a difficult thing to say because, especially in this time or any time, there are people out of work, people have budgets. It's a very difficult thing to say to somebody, "Go to the market and really speak with your pocketbook and demand better products and higher quality," so that's the only way we are going to get it.

What's happening in our marketplace today at a retail level is a direct result of chefs. Everything that you see in your grocery store today, in terms of the higher quality and more variety and more seasonality, is a result of what chefs have done in their restaurants.

Chefs have set the example that consumers follow. So I want arugula now, or I want to to see a short rib or whatever it is. It's being written about. What's being produced in restaurants, people see it and say I want to get them.

When I was a kid, how many varieties of lettuce did you see in the store? Iceberg lettuce! Now you have 12 different lettuces to choose from anywhere -- from arugula to endive to whatever. And it's because chefs have demanded those products in their restaurants.

CNN: You've been one of the pioneers in the inventive uses of vegetables.

Keller: You know vegetables are the one thing that elevates anything on the plate and are in and of themselves center-of-the-plate opportunities. When you talk about that center-of-the-plate product you used to think about it as proteins, but now it's vegetables, too. Our garden affords us the ability to really produce a large variety of vegetables and very seasonal.

CNN: And vegetables may be more sustainable ultimately than seafood or some of the other offerings?

Keller: It's about how they're farmed. I mean there are parts of California, our wonderful valley there that produces a lot of vegetables from probably some of the most toxic land in the world. You know, it just depends on how they are farmed. Are they sustainable? Certainly it's sustainable, it's sustainable in organic ways. But again, it's going to cost more money.

Here piggy, piggy....

2010-09-29T05:47:00.003-04:00

Saturday, October 2, 2010, rain or shine
11:30am - 4:30pm
Governors Island
www.ilikepig.com

Tickets are limited and will sell out for this event. Please be sure to get yours in advance, they will not be for sale the day of.

On Saturday, October 2,
Governors Island (click for directions)
will be transformed into a pork-lover's paradise.
Welcome to Pig Island, a culinary festival featuring local food, NY State wines, Six Point Craft Ales, and live music -- it is guaranteed to be an amazing day out.

Twenty chefs from some of New York City’s finest
venues along with an impressive cast of food experts and personalities are expected to dazzle the crowd with their “whole hog know-how”. All participants will work with locally sourced ingredients, including whole pigs purchased directly from farms, such as Violet Hill Farm and The Piggery. The talent includes Sara Jenkins of Porchetta, Jacques Gautier from Palo Santo, “Chopped” champion Michael Jenkins from Butter Restaurant, along with other barbecue masters such as Hoppin’ John Taylor of Low Country cooking fame and Sam Barbieri with the award-winning Fuhgeddaboutit BBQ Team.

Under The Milky Way: Headfull of Helium

2010-09-27T09:24:00.003-04:00

Saltines, jell-o, broth, toast, water, iced tea, Gatorade....

Uggggh....still feeling super weak, woozy and nauseous. No interest in real solid food at all....

Sick to Move: Tears, tonics and tummies...

2010-09-26T14:44:00.002-04:00

I am sick...sick....sick. I can't move, or can but refuse. The Wife put the laptop next to me this morning when she went to work, and I only just flipped it open. Everything hurts-- shooting pain down my arms and pulled muscle sting in my chest.

I hadn't felt quite right all day yesterday and then at 7pm, my body began rejecting the little bit of fuel that I had put in it during the day-- a blt, an orange juice and some coffee/water/energy drink...stuff was exiting my body anywhere it could-- all at the same time. Ultimately, even water with ice chips in it wouldn't even stay down. I was so dehydrated that my lips chapped instantly. This intense phase lasted 10 hours straight. If I managed to sleep, it was only brief spells punctuated with urgent dashes to the bathroom or for the bucket beside the bed.

I hate to be too graphic about this, but in several instances, there wasn't time to grab the bucket. Suffice to say that The Wife slept in another room. There were/are no comfortable positions-- everything is sore/achey/tender....I'm not too strong to cry...

Sad If I Lost It: The Why, The Where & The Wardrobe

2010-09-21T13:22:00.003-04:00

Let me start by saying

and follow by apologizing for the paucity of posts in the last 2 months or so, but so on it goes. Happy new year to my hebraic brethren and while I'm at it, let me we wish the rest of my peoples well. I'm honored by your friendship. I'd be so sad if I lost it. Like Guided by Voices said on Mag Earwhig!

Smash it Up!: Tonight's Burger at RUB BBQ

2010-06-07T17:10:00.007-04:00

Photo (not tonight's burger): Nick Solares

This just in from Scottie Smith at RUB BBQ in New York City:

Tonight's burger: The Burnt End Burger

Freshly ground beef, chopped burnt ends, pepper jack cheese, pickles, onion, mustard...

Available from 6pm-9pm

RUB BBQ

208 West 23rd St

New York, NY 10011

212-524-4300

Green River: Today's Specialty Burger at RUB BBQ

2010-05-24T15:44:00.003-04:00

Photo by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is NOT tonight's burger

Per A Hamburger Today:

Today's Special Burger at Rub BBQ: Pacific Northwestern Burger

Today's special burger at Rub BBQ is the Pacific Northwestern Burger ($7.50) topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, and Thousand Island-type dressing. (They describe it as an In-N-Out-style burger, although In-N-Out isn't from the Pacific Northwest.) It will be available for dinner from 6 to 9 p.m. 208 West 23rd Street, New York NY 10011 (map); 212-524-4300

Wish I could be there, but I'll be at Fatty Cue, instead!

Picture at top Previous Burger cooked by the expert hand of Scott Smith at RUB

I'll wear it proudly: A good laugh

2010-05-17T00:09:00.003-04:00

Read all about this tremendously gifted bullshit artist and watch him in action as he flails about with his yo-yo, then shows up for an appearance sans-string for his yo-yo. Is he that talented a faker, or is he truly cuckoo-- you be the judge.

A Quack-Quack Here: Home-Cured Duck Prosciutto

2010-05-04T19:02:00.005-04:00

I followed the recipe in Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn's Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing.
The basic (and total) recipe is to pack the breast in kosher salt for 24 hours and then rinse it, dry it, dust it with white pepper, then wrap it in cheesecloth and hang it in a cool (50-60 degree) and humid place for about 7 days. In Italy some people use caves for the Prosciutto. If you have access to one, go for it.

When done it will lose about 30% of the original weight and will be denser, but not like jerky. The color will be a deep rich crimson and when sliced quite thinly, will be a beautiful red. This was Magret Duck Breast from D'artagnan. Here's a photo of the finished product sliced. I wish I had a nice deli slicer at home....

Monday Morning: babyback ribs, you sure look fine

2010-04-08T18:34:00.004-04:00

So, what does a bbq chef, a restaurant pitmaster do on his day off? I cook babyback ribs, that's what I do. It was just a beautiful clear day, not too warm and with a breeze. I sat in the window with a cold drink, up on the third floor, with a slight breeze touched with smoke.

I made a quick rub and threw these two racks on the bubba keg with a mixture of cowboy lump (not my favorite), hickory and cherry that I split and sawed down into 6" long sticks or so, about 1-2" thick. They took about 4 hours exactly.

Whatdya Know?: The Weight, the waiting, and the way

2010-03-01T13:19:00.003-05:00

Another post in the same month!? That seems too unlikely, yet here it is.

Grillin' on the Bay is coming up real soon in Brooklyn and it is shaping up to be the best event yet. Even more backyarders and teams from local bbq joints are lining up to show each other which one rules the grill and smokes the competition. Still sponsored by RUB BBQ, sanctioned by NEBS, and bringing some new supporters along this year as well as more fun events for the whole family, it's sure to be a blast. This event is ALWAYS a fantastic time.

It's Monday which means RUB is doing the weekly burger night over on 23rd between 7th and 8th in New York City-- Scott Smith hand picks a secret blend of beautiful beef and grinds it up just moments before the patties get cooked, ensuring burger nirvana. Each week they cook one specialty burger along with their signature RUB Burger. Scottie brings his exceptional eye for detail and commitment to culinary gold to the burgers, just as he does the barbecue....

This Just In!: Myron Mixon with Craig Ferguson

2010-02-19T06:10:00.005-05:00

Not As Dead As You Think: Happy Holidays

2009-12-21T02:16:00.000-05:00

Care of Cell 44: Losing friends, life's grift

2009-10-31T11:40:00.004-04:00

A Facebook post led to phone calls led to finding out that one of The Wife's childhood friends, a woman with whom she has had a long, complicated friendship, is on life support in an Albany hospital with lungs that apparently look like Swiss Cheese. She is Pneumonia ravaged and holding on by a thin ephemeral strand to her life here on Earth.

We are about to hop in the car and go to her side. Because of the ups and downs that come with any relationship, there is guilt, bittersweet relief, sadness and the irreversible loss of their tangibility, their 'themness' that will always be absent and silent.

I know it was not easy for her raising two young girls by herself and then years later another baby with an unfortunate father. I know she was, like most of us, crippled with self-doubt, fear, flagging willpower, and a thirst for self-destruction, but in the back of my mind, I always thought it would be different, that she would turn it all around and land square on her feet. Life is full of surprises.

The mighty Zombies perform "Care of Cell 44," from the epic Odessey and Oracle album just below. A sweet song from a mother to her son in jail. Beach Boys, Beatles and more in the mix with this stuff. The Zombies are so wonderful.

You Gots to Chill: What's what and whatnot

2009-10-26T10:53:00.006-04:00

On Saturday The Wife and I drove out to Sayville, Long Island for the 2009 Battle of the BBQ Brethren NY State BBQ Championship which was sponsored by RUB BBQ. Saturday was a grilling contest and Sunday was the KCBS BBQ Contest. I was there as a representative of RUB.

We walked in and first went to visit my buddy, Phil, the Grand Poobah of the BBQ-Brethren. As soon as I walked into his trailer to say hello...he tells me to put down my camera and coffee and start cooking. We hadn't been there 5 minutes, I hadn't finished my first cup of coffee and I was sweating shallots and garlic on a camping stove.

I cooked the stuffed chicken breast entry for the Entree category. I don't know how we did-- it seemed delicious to me. The stuffing had the shallots and garlic, olives, mushrooms, sage and cheese (pepper jack??), then it was topped with pancetta and mozzarella and served on top of a grilled polenta cake with grilled fennel and then a red wine and mushroom gravy and a sage leaf as garnish. Nice dish.

It was great to see some people that I don't see very often and to be amongst other absolute BBQ nuts who enjoy talking about it all as much as I do.

Children of the Revolution: Recent home cookings...

2009-10-01T20:40:00.001-04:00

Dinner: Dry aged rib steak, double smoked thick cut bacon, grilled asparagus, roasted potatoes and braised caramelized cabbage....

Dedicated to my buddy, Scott.

WTF? Has it really been a month?!

2009-09-28T00:35:00.004-04:00

I cannot believe that there hasn't been activity on this site in over a month. That is pathetic. Shameless. Shoot the messenger. Oh, well....

This is the way it's been, people. Sleep...cook barbecue. Eat.....cook barbecue. Repeat....

I had forgotten how much I loved the smell of hickory-- really good hickory, with a sweet, hearty smell of clean burning wood. The smell of fall leaves mixed with chimneys. So delicious.

I have cooked at home a fair amount, but I've just been too tired to document much of it....I will get on the stick. I promise...or not...And now, The Allman Brothers Band from way back in 1971, just around 9 months to the day before I was born (creepy!), kicking out a righteous version of Blue Sky....

Baby's on Fire: Sears offers ideal grilled option

2009-08-20T23:19:00.004-04:00

Sears Offers Grill to 'Cook Babies'- FOXNews.com

Posted using ShareThis

"The Web site for department store giant Sears offered a gruesome sales pitch Thursday — a grill that could "cook babies" and be used to roast body parts."

I Want to Strangle You: Slashed Tire Nightmare

2009-08-06T17:19:00.012-04:00

I am so pissed off right now I could spit sparks. I have been waiting to tell this story and finally have the time. Some busybody (get the kids out of the room) fucknuckle called the police and complained that my trailer was on the street unhitched. And the police came and said it had to be moved. It was parked hours from where I live and no one contacted me directly. I actually found out that my pit was about to be towed second-hand through a friend. And, apparently, it had a flat tire.

To be clear, it was in front of my father's house in Long Island. Ever since my mother passed away and my professional life got more busy, the house has seen fewer and fewer visits. The pit had been there for years (on and off, but mostly on when I wasn't catering) and no one had ever had a problem with it. In the most recent weeks, the level of complaint and uproar skyrocketed. Complaints have ranged from "it's an eyesore" to "I nearly walked into it in the dark walking my dog at night." Get a flashlight. The neighbors across the street say that they nearly backed into it when coming out of their driveway. I would've moved it if I had known that.

When I finally had the opportunity to get to the pit with the Wife and the car (remember, it was parked hours from where I live and my days off are days she usually works), I find out that it is not merely a flat tire. Someone slashed it. A clean, inch-long gap in the side of the tire. Since it is a trailer tire, most people don't have what I need on hand and I couldn't get anyone to tow it-- so I had to put it up with a jack, stack wood underneath it and get the tire off...and wait for the tire to come in and get put on the wheel and re-attached to the pit, fucking up the minimal free time I have at all, let alone with the wife and making me late for work.... All-in-all, crap....I have a cell phone pic of her jacked up Jethro style on the logs with my cell phone....I can't email it, but I have to get it posted.

Oh, what a night: Has it really been a month?

2009-08-04T10:47:00.003-04:00

So, I have sorely neglected you, my friends and faithful. For that, I am sorry.

Life has been a strong current recently, and like a furtive Sockeye, I am trying to make my way. Work has been priority number one and, though I am old, out of shape and tired, has been an amazing experience. Working @ RUB with Scott and the other cooks is a tremendously great opportunity-- I've learned so much in such a short time.

Here're some pulled pork spring rolls that I made the other night....more on this to come.

I Hear Them All: Old Crow Medicine Show

2009-07-07T10:40:00.002-04:00

Donde Esta La Bisteca?: Ray Lampe Cooks Beef

2009-06-22T13:25:00.001-04:00

Smokestack Lightening: Memphis BBQ

2009-06-21T11:08:00.000-04:00

Love & Mercy: Brian Wilson

2009-06-11T14:31:00.001-04:00

The Night Chicago Died

2009-06-07T08:47:00.003-04:00

A quick look at eating in the Windy City courtesy of HollyEats.com. Some friends will be there soon, and I'm jealous!

Holly Eats The Midwest

Dancing in the Moonlite: Moonlite Inn, Owensboro, KY

2009-06-06T13:23:00.001-04:00

New Kid Revival: xoxo, panda and Leaves of Grass

2009-06-04T13:43:00.001-04:00

A Tear Stained Letter: R.I.P. Lois

2009-05-30T13:08:00.003-04:00

We had to put our cat to sleep. She was my friend and family member for 17 years. She was with me through ups and downs and lived every bit of her 9 lives. I brought her home at 2 weeks old and she stayed very much that kitten throughout her life. I met her when I was in college-- at the pet store I went to give her back to the store clerk and she wouldn't let got of my shirt. "I guess I'll take her," I said.

Anyone that knows us knows how much we loved Lois. She was our joy and we pampered her like you wouldn't believe. A reader of this blog probably saw plenty of pictures of our kitty.

We treated her for kidney disease for well over a year and it was a very difficult year. Despite knowing the end was near, we still couldn't believe it when the moment came.

Opus 40: The Bubba Keg Has Landed

2009-05-07T13:37:00.027-04:00

In the last few months there has been an astounding number of reviews and mentions of the new Bubba Keg convection smoker. Just about every BBQ-related blogger and writer that I know has used one of these things, so I was excited when I stumbled across an old email that I had missed from them offering me the chance to review one.

Top and bottom vents. Wheels left off to make it harder to steal.

For those that are unfamiliar, the Bubba Keg's design is very similar to the classic Kamado-style cookers-- that is, an oval or egg-shaped vertical cooker about 4-feet tall and 20 or so inches across. The inside of the Kamados are ceramic which is a dense, heat and moisture retaining material. A small amount of charcoal goes in the bottom of the egg and above that about 2-feet or so is the grate for the food. They are designed to cook with the lid closed and are super-efficient. There are air vents near the bottom (to stoke the fire) and on the top (to release and help circulate air).

The Bubba Keg looks a bit like R2-D2 with less buttons and lights. It is a modern, lighter take on the original design using two walls of steel with insulation between them to simulate the properties of the ceramic. A gasket on the lid lip helps reduce the leakiness of the seal. Like with the Kamado, there are air vents on the top and near the bottom. The one near the bottom has a little screen to hold in the coals and ashes, which is a nice safety touch. Another nice safety feature is that, thanks to the insulation, the BK doesn't get very hot on the outside, which means if someone bumps it, touches it, they will not get burned. The top and bottom vents can get hot, and care should always be exercised around fire.

Charcoal burns slowly and gradually. The amount in the 1st picture is probably more than you need.

After a few false starts, I finally had a chance to set up the grill behind the building with the eager help of Willie, the building's Super (aka, handyman). This is the first time in the nearly 8 years that I've lived here that I've been given the green light to cook behind the building-- something about the BK (and knowing I'm a professional BBQ cook, I suspect) has Willie's attention. I don't know what it is, but I am consistently plying him with food to maintain the goodwill.

Anyway...back to the action. Putting the thing together was a snap, really, and I'm not the handiest fella in the world. The only thing you need an extra pair of hands for is getting it on the stand and out of the box. It's a little heavy and cumbersome for one person, pretty much. It can be done, but the extra hands really help. For various reasons (security being foremost) I didn't add all the handles, wheels or hardware, but I did put on the front handle with the built in bottle openers, those are essential!

The cooking grate and the top air vent are cast iron, so they need to be treated like any other cast iron pieces. I seasoned her up with Crisco and got the lump burning with a few chunks of Mesquite, which was all I had on hand.

Getting the fire going is the same as with any grill except this thing requires very little charcoal-- about 1.5 pounds is plenty to get started, or two or three fist-sized piles. With all the vents wide open and the charcoal burning well, it took only a moment or two to get up to 200 degrees, which is where I chose to start making my adjustments to the vents.

If you wait much longer it will get away from you, if you are shooting for the low and slow style of cooking. Since it is double-walled and insulated, getting it to cool down is harder than getting it to warm up. If you are looking to sear and/or cook at higher temperatures, let it rise to the 400+ range. Make small adjustments to the top and bottom and you can pretty much dial it in to a temperature you want. One load of charcoal lasts a few good hours. Plus, next time I opened it up to cook, there was enough charcoal to get going again from the last cook.

As far as wood, I found that two to three half--fist sized pieces was plenty, but that's my taste and using a pretty tangy wood-- mesquite. With a fruit wood like peach or apple, maybe you could go heavier.

All in all, after giving her a pretty thorough test with sausages, pork loin, ribs, chicken breasts, chicken leg quarters, burnt ends, potatoes, portobellas, onions, peppers, smoked almonds and more, I can say that everything that has come off the pit has been moist and delicious. Right out of the box, this has been an exceptionally versatile and easy to use piece of equipment. I have to say, I'm very impressed.

The Bubba Keg is available at Home Depot with a retail price tag of $599 and Sam's Club in 30 stores throughout Alabama, Georgia, North and South Carolina and Tennessee is also selling them and at the same price of $599.

And, lastly, here's a tune from Mercury Rev, which should appeal to Beatles, Flaming Lips and T-Rex fans....

Lilly of the Valley: Chris Lilly on grilling pork

2009-05-04T12:17:00.003-04:00

Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson Barbecue takes a quick walk through how to cook a few different cuts of pork, from the butt to the tenderloin.

This Just In! The 'Groovy Tunes' playlist got a huge infusion of new tunes today from soul to pop and everything in between. The old tunes are there, but the order's been scrambled. Enjoy!

A quick one....

2009-05-01T13:26:00.008-04:00

Here's a family meal platter I made at RUB for the staff at the end of the night.

And...here's some action on my brand new Bubba Keg. I will post more about this wonderful grill/smoker in the next day or so. They were kind enough to send me one to review and I've enjoyed it a ton so far.

Runaway Wind: RUB BBQ's Orange County Chopper Pit

2009-04-24T12:06:00.003-04:00

You may have seen this before, but it's worth another look. Here's a BBQ Pit made by David Klose that is also a chopper made by Orange County Choppers of tv's American Chopper.

Go All The Way: Myron Mixon on Whole Hogs

2009-04-23T11:40:00.003-04:00

One of the most celebrated Pit Masters of the south, Myron Mixon from Jack's Old South discusses whole hog preparation. An art he has just about mastered.

Note: The audio requires close listening and a good ear w/ southern accents, but it is worth it.

Ready, Steady, Go: Working at RUB BBQ

2009-04-21T11:40:00.003-04:00

Some of you may already know that I recently started working at RUB BBQ in Manhattan. This is Paul Kirk, aka the K.C. Baron of Barbecue's restaurant. I'm really proud to be a part of their team-- the food is great and the people are even better. Thanks to Andrew and Scottie.

RUB
208 W. 23rd St. (between 7th and 8th avenues)
New York, NY 10011
(212) 524-4300

Paper Plane: Home snacking

2009-04-15T12:10:00.020-04:00

Matzo Brei and Apricot Chicken

Recipes by request:

Matzo Brei

1 pack matzo (a box has two packages)
1 cup boiling water
1 small onion diced
2 large eggs beaten
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper

Break up the matzo, add the diced onion and the boiling water. The idea is to wet the matzoh, but not turn it to soup. Let it sit about 5 minutes. Next, add the beaten egg, salt and pepper.

Fry the pancake in melted butter over medium heat until brown on one side (approx 5 minutes), then flip and brown the other side.

Apricot Chicken

2 stalks celery chopped
2 carrots chopped
2 medium onions chopped
1 green and 1 red pepper, both chopped
1 boneless skinless chicken breast, cubed approx 1" or so
1/2 cup rice wine

Seasoning:
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp 5 spice powder
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper.

Sprinkle spice mix on chicken.

Combine 1 cup favorite barbecue sauce with equal amount apricot preserves or Saucy Susan or something. Add half of the sauce to a bowl.

Lightly brown chicken pieces in a heavy pan (or wok) with peanut oil over high heat and remove to the bowl with the sauce and toss the chicken in the sauce.

Add a little more oil to the pan and add in the vegetables and cook them until the carrots are just tender and the onions start to color. Deglaze with the rice wine.

Once the wine has nearly all evaporated, return the chicken to the pan with the vegetables, add the remaining sauce and stir until sauce is a light glaze and all is heated together.

Serve immediately with steamed white rice.

Hickory Wind: The Big Bob Gibson Story

2009-04-14T10:42:00.003-04:00

This lovely short film from the Southern Foodways Alliance tells the story of Big Bob Gibson BBQ, an Alabama legend and home to one of the world's finest bbq competition chefs, Chris Lilly.

BBGBBQ from Southern Foodways on Vimeo.

A tisket, A Brisket: How to 'cue a Brisket

2009-04-13T11:33:00.002-04:00

Today, we have Stuart Carpenter teaching us his tips for cooking up a brisket. Take it away, Stu...

Volume 2: Babyback & Spare Ribs w/ Chris Marks

2009-04-10T13:34:00.002-04:00

Next up in the how-to series, Chris Marks of Three Little Pigs BBQ on Ribs.

Hot For Teacher: Paul Kirk teaches you to 'que!

2009-04-09T13:16:00.004-04:00

Volume 1 in a series. Chef Paul Kirk, one of the world's foremost bbq ambassadors teaches you the how-to's of bbq. I will be posting these videos in a series. I'm a big fan of his restaurant in New York City, RUB, who sponsors the Grillin' on the Bay contest each year. I haven't seen these posted elsewhere before...

Marlow & Daughters: Tom Mylan talks butchery

2009-04-08T14:30:00.005-04:00

Newsweek has an article about Tom Mylan of Marlow & Sons in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. He is a hands-on artisinal dude. Aside from Marlow & Sons, he also runs Marlow & Daughters, a butcher shop. Oh, and he blogs it up!

And he has his butcher blog.

What: Judy Street and Grillin' on the Bay

2009-04-02T17:22:00.003-04:00

Don't Forget This Saturday: Grillin' on the Bay!!!

Grillin' on the Bay 2009

2009-04-01T23:51:00.006-04:00

Grillin' On The Bay and The Brooklyn Chili Smack Down

Sponsored by RUB BBQ and Butternuts Beer and Ale with

The RUB Rapid Fire Challenge
Sponsored by Pat La Frieda Meat and RUB BBQ

Saturday, April 4th, 20009
Corner of East 18th Street and Ave Z Brooklyn, NY
11:00 AM to 4:30 PM

Free Admission. $10 for all the chili you can eat.
BBQ, Beer and other food items for sale.

It's an incredible line up of cooks this year.

Smoke In Da Eye - Defending Champion!
Purple Turtle Caterers - Returning Champions from the first Grillin' On The Bay.
Beer Belly Porkers
iQue featuring Andy O. C. Husbands of the award winning Tremont647
Ribs Within
King's County BBQ Truck
Josh Ozersky of the Feedbag formerly of Grub Street with Shane McBride of Craftsteak
Wildwood BBQ featuring Big Lou Elrose with Robbie Richter, former Pitmaster of Hill Country
Moose's Mayhem
Atom's Ribs featuring Matt Fisher, former Pitmaster of Wildwood BBQ NYC
Team Agave
Ma's Cue Crew
Transformer BBQ
Smoke On The Water
Porkaholics
Rb's BBQ
Pearl Lee Q's
Eat A Donut

And some wild entertainment from Cirque Du Soleil. I don't know what they've got planned, but I'm sure it will be fun. The New England Barbecue Society is sanctioning this event

Additional sponsors include Grill Charms, The Waterfront Ale House, Andrews McMeel Publishing and Carrie Bachman Public Relations

This is going to be a great day. I hope to see all of you there.

Sometime to Return: Mac n Cheese w/ Cold Smoked Cheddar

2009-03-31T14:04:00.005-04:00

Daisy Glaze: Flank Steak Tacos

2009-03-30T15:30:00.012-04:00

I don't normally do this, but time was tight, so I pricked the flank steak all over with a fork and then put it in a bag with the marinade which was made on the fly w/ beer, Tabasco Chipotle, Worcestershire, mustard, garlic, black pepper and I forget what else. I seared it nice and rare on the cast iron grill pan and made some pickled onions to go with it.

I re-thermed thin slices of leftover meat in stock enhanced w/ Cremini mushrooms sauteed in butter w/ herbs de provence. We made tacos with pickled onion, cilantro, orange tomato, lime and jalapeno. SO GOOD.

Pickled onions were quick made w/ spiced rice vinegar, a few splashes of white vinegar, some unfiltered cider vinegar, mustard seeds, tumeric, pickling spices, dehydrated onion, black peppercorns, water, salt and white cane sugar. I brought the brine to a boil (dissolved sugar), poured over sliced onions and let it set in the fridge.

Book Club: New Fresh Horizon

2009-03-28T15:34:00.006-04:00

Embarrassing Moments: All About Chad

2009-03-27T19:16:00.017-04:00

Tomorrow I will be grilling skirt steak, onions, peppers, tomatoes and whatever else I can get my hands on. I'd like to make a chimichurri. Anyone have a favorite recipe?

Here's a video I made for my friend Ben's band.

All About Chad
"Embarrassing Moments"

Bonded to you: Bill Fox is Amazing

2009-03-25T19:17:00.001-04:00

Possession: A Spare Me Records Memory

2009-03-24T11:57:00.002-04:00

Here's a tune we released on Spare Me Records way back when....in the 90s. I LOVE The Original Sins and Brother JT.

Catherine Cares: Pete Ham Demo

2009-03-23T12:36:00.008-04:00

Transmetropolitan: A weekend of eating

2009-03-22T22:16:00.009-04:00

It started Friday night with my double meat cheesesteak w/ cheese wiz and onions from Carl's while seeing "I Love You Man" in Kips Bay Then, Saturday we had a wonderful meal at Lomzynianka in Greenpoint.

On Sunday we went to one of our favorite brunch spots, Motorino in Williamsburg. We went recently with Hiroshi. After brunch, we went to Eddie's Sweet Shop in Forest Hills for sundaes!

Life to Go: George Jones and Garlic

2009-03-22T00:04:00.007-04:00

Some Chicken and rolls for dinner the other night. Seared the chicken, then added plenty of onion and garlic, a little bit of fresh Marjoram, salt, pepper, potatoes, carrot, a splash or two of stock, barely up the sides of the chicken and let it simmer. At last, some chives. The rolls had a little roasted garlic and rosemary olive oil added to the dough.

Crossing Brooklyn Ferry: A Visit to Dumbo Caught on Cam

2009-03-15T20:04:00.014-04:00

Yes, yes y'all...and we continue to do what we are doing without halting...

Eh-hem...The Wife and I traveled over to DUMBO and visited the Kings County BBQ Truck to pick up some food for dinner. The truck is set up outside the Brownstoner's Brooklyn Flea at its temporary winter digs. While we were in that neighborhood, we stopped at Jacques Torres to buy a few birthday gifts for The Wife's brother.

From the truck we bought a Burnt Ends platter (w/ wonderfully 'light,' clean and not-too-sweet beans, a tangy-peppery, broad-leaf-thick-cut coleslaw, pickles and bread) and a pulled pork sandwich. Both came with the slaw and pickle slices which were not the usual bread and butter style, but dill and refreshing w/ the meat and hamburger buns (their 'air bread').

The Burnt Ends, while slightly leaner than a classic cube of deckle, were tender little bites about 1/2" or so and gently smoky, with a thin gauze of sauce that was not too overpowering-- maybe their own juices and rub. We wound up splitting these for breakfast the next morning and basically skipped the bread and popped these like candy. The beans were cold, but not too tomato paste laden, or soaked in cloying sauce. They were sweet with good chew and a nice lightness.

The Pulled Pork was less to my taste, unfortunately, and could have had more smoke, rub and bark. That is not to say that it wasn't tasty, moist and nicely pulled into gentle tangles. This was heated up in sauce after being pulled-- again, the sauce was not so assertive to overwhelm the sweetness inherent in the rich pork flavor.

Chris, the main man, was completely affable and fun to chat with as he and his two cooks put out the food. He didn't even mind me poking my camera in the truck (or so it seemed). He was nice enough to also let us taste the collards (I had two bites at the end of the meal and was too full to taste) and jalapeno-cheese grits which I am eating now. Rich but not too heavy. The jalapeno cuts through nicely.

I will definitely hit these folks up again soon for another taste of their food and hospitality, their honky tonk tunes and more of their menu.

Kings County BBQ Website

Burning Down a Snowflake: Snow-In Slideshow

2009-03-14T10:36:00.015-04:00

Here's a view into a snowy weekend in Long Island.

Included herein-- sights of the sleepy seaside hamlet, and a Southern meal inspired by and featuring recipes from "The Cracker Kitchen" by Janis Owens to celebrate The Wife's birthday. A review of this gem of a book is coming soon. As always, you can see that Lois really got into the 'lounging' spirit.

The beautiful song accompanying the photos is "When I Blow" by Bill Fox, from his cd, "Transit Byzantium," on Spin Art Records.

Dinner and a Movie: Monday Night Cooking on Camera

2009-03-10T17:30:00.005-04:00

Here's a real quick video of Monday's dinner. I made some red sauce and penne, fresh baked rolls (made the dough in the bread machine), and green peas. Making the dough in the bread machine is so quick and easy-- leaving time to take care of other things rather than kneading dough, etc....Obviously, The Wife and the Cat were excited for dinner as you will see....

The music from Teenage Fanclub is the closing track on their cd, Bandwagonesque. I encourage you to buy it....

Here's Where The Strings Come In: Nina Lalli out at Village Voice

2009-03-09T15:04:00.003-04:00

File Under: confirming once again that I hate the Village Voice. Catching up with some news...According to MediaBistro, the Voice has released the ginchy Nina Lalli from her food writing duties. That was some of my favorite writing about food in NYC.

MediaBistro says that Ms. Lalli "will be replaced by Sarah DiGregorio of Chile Pepper magazine. The word is that the Village Voice wants to take their food coverage in a different direction."

We're not the only ones who noticed her absence--
Sound Taste misses Nina, too

In the comments on the Eater piece about this there's a fair amount of love shared, too.

Best of luck, Nina!

A Picture of Dorian Gray: Cooking Ribs and Sausage on Video!

2009-03-04T10:27:00.002-05:00

Here's a little video I shot this past weekend. We cooked spareribs and sausage just before the tremendous snowfall hit us.

You can also see this video on the ultra-swell WhiteTrash BBQ blog.

Music: Scott Walker, "Light."

People who need people: Bessinger's BBQ in the News

2009-02-12T15:18:00.005-05:00

People magazine has been mentioning bbq alot recently. First the Justin Timberlake BBQ bombshell and then featuring their bbq of the month-- Bessinger's.

The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance: Gene Pitney

2009-02-06T17:25:00.004-05:00

Vacation Time: Barbecue n' Bagels, Anywhere USA

2009-02-04T15:07:00.014-05:00

Presenting a few pictures of some recent cooking shenanigans. We've cooked alot of country style ribs, chicken and brisket recently and had fun coming up with ways to use up what we've cooked without eating 'bbq' every night. More on that coming next...There's also been a fair amount of baking going on, which leads us to the bagels...

This was something that I had wanted to do for a long time, but just hadn't found the time or the confidence to attempt. But since we got our bread machine last year I've had visions of all kinds of doughy grandeur that have yet to coalesce into much more than a few (increasingly promising) loaves of bread. I was enthusiastic at the time, and without considering the limited opportunities I would have for baking at home when I started my new job, I overbought (seriously!) on bread flour and yeast at one point (remarkably still viable yeast...) and had wondered when it would be used.

Well, being home all the time recently has led me to experiment more and 'bagels!' popped into my head one day. They have always seemed daunting because the good ones are so rare and the process involves not only making a good dough and baking it well, but multiple raises and boiling before baking the signature rings. Somehow, the time was right.

There are various recipes that I've come across that are more involved (and time consuming) and using extra gluten or Malt (dry and syrup) and other ingredients that probably yield a more 'complexly' flavored end product, but this recipe is straight forward and quickly assembled with the readily available ingredients I had on hand-- bread flour, yeast, dried garlic, dried onion, salt, water, eggs, and sugar in just a few hours. And they were pretty darn tasty...

Bread Machine Bagel Dough Recipe

1 Cup Water (80 degrees F)
1.5 T Sugar
1.5 t salt
3 Cups Bread Flour
2 t Active Yeast

For Glaze: One Egg Beaten

Select Dough Cycle for 1.5 Lb batch. When dough is ready, bring 2 quarts water to a boil and add 2 T sugar. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

On Floured surface, divide dough into 8 pieces. Roll each piece into a smooth ball and poke a hole in the center of each with your thumb. Gently pull to make a 1" hole. Place the dough pieces on a greased baking sheet. Cover and let them rise in a warm place for 10 minutes.

Place a few bagels in the boiling water at a time. Boil them for 3 minutes, turning once, then remove them with a slotted spoon back to the greased baking sheet.

Brush each bagel with egg and bake them for 20-25 minutes or until done. Cool on a wire rack and serve. If you would like to top the bagels with sesame/poppy seeds, dried garlic or onion, etc...do so after egg glaze and before baking.

Bagels: Post Bath

And, the finished product waiting for cream cheese:

Today's Tune For Q'n...Courtesy of: Evan Johns + The H-Bombs

Brand New Love: Motorino

2009-01-24T20:24:00.038-05:00

Chef Mathieu Palombino Stands Watch

You could feel the warmth of the fire as soon as you walked into the room.

Late Saturday morning, Hiroshi called and said he was heading into Williamsburg for brunch and did we want to come with him. "Where?" I asked hesitantly. Most of Willyburg makes my skin crawl these days-- it's a toxic combination of self-certified hep cats and thinly veiled economic opportunism (or not so thinly veiled).

Motorino, he said. It's on Devoe at Graham.

I imagined some pseudo modern place with a too loud soundtrack of pounding music and lackluster service. "Great," I said weakly and headed out.

But that was not at all what we found. Chef/Owner Mathieu Palombino's Motorino is a warm, bright space with marble surfaces and floor-to-ceiling windows drawing in plenty of natural light. There was, in fact, a soundtrack, but it was late 70's and early 80's disco/synth-pop at a very pleasant level that allowed easy conversation and helped keep the energy up, but the volume very moderate.

At the center of the action is the beautiful wood-fired oven against the back wall facing you directly as you walk into the dining room. It was a cold, raw day and the warmth of the fire hit us in the face (in a very pleasant way) as soon as we stepped through the door.

I immediately asked Chef Mathieu what kind of wood he stoked the fire with and was thrilled when he immediately replied Oak, Cherry and Birch. That was a good sign. The staff at some bbq places don't know what kind of wood they use and it drives me up the wall. A subject for another time. He was also hands on with the fire and the cooking, with just one other cook working with him at the main station in the dining room in front of the roaring oven.

The main attraction is Neapolitan Pizza-- thin, airy and light crust with some char on the bottom and edges, toothsome but with a nice crunch. Pizza Margherita (the classic tomato, mozzarella and basil pie), is available as well as some more creative combinations including a pie featuring Sopressata and Chile Oil, and some seasonal creations such as the Brussel Sprout and Speck with Fior Di Latte and Parmigiano Reggiano.

The Chef wisely chose to keep the non-pizza menu fairly brief, with a few cheese plate and Salumi course options and a handful of sophisticated Antipasti such as the Mussels in Saffron Chili Broth. The focus on clean, bright flavors, seasonal ingredients and carefully chosen and sourced products allow simple combinations to catalyze.

What did we have?

The Wife: White Pizza w/ Uovo (eggs)-- minced Prosciutto Di Parma, basil, Fior Di Latte.
Light and fragrant, with a nice play between the crust and the hot melty toppings.

Hiroshi: A goat cheese fritatta topped with baby arugula and freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Romano cheese. He also had a side order of double applewood smoked thick cut bacon. The fritatta was hearty and rich, but not leaden or soggy. The bright, peppery snap of the arugula created a lovely punch to the more gentle flavors without overpowering.

I had the Pizza Margherita and the double smoked bacon as well-- THIS WAS AMAZING BACON with a deep perfume of smoke and rich porky flavor that was cooked in the wood fire bringing it to another level. I almost ate this too quickly to taste it. The crust stood up perfectly to the toppings without sagging and the fresh creamy cheese rounded out the soft fruit of the sauce delightfully. All I can say about the bacon is don't order it. That leaves more for me.

The kitchen made an extra order of baked eggs by accident that they gave to us gratis. The eggs were cooked in a light, fruity tomato sauce with goat cheese, topped with fresh oregano and served with toasted bread wedges. While I'm not a huge fan of goat cheese, this was a lovely combination-- the cheese gave a rich foundation of earthiness to the whole dish, balancing the acid of the tomato and highlighting the silky eggs.

The service was typically hep and a little dreamy, but not so much to diminish our enjoyment of the meal. As we left there was a crowd of smiling couples with strollers milling around outside and a few filing in. Graham Ave off Devoe is dotted with new restaurants-- a Thai place opened up!? It wasn't like that when I lived on Devoe St. It was hard enough to get a pizzeria to deliver to us, let alone having a gourmet, artisinal pizzeria right down the block.

But this was much more than just a local pizza place. The well focused flavors, refined combinations and attention to detail ensure that Motorino will become a destination. I admit my trepidation when Hiroshi said we were eating in the 'Burg, but I'm so glad he called.

Motorino
319 Graham Avenue (Devoe Street)
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
(718) 599-8899.
Click Here For A Map Of This Location

And Your Bird Can Sing: Tater tales and unemployment

2009-01-09T22:02:00.005-05:00

I know my posts have been infrequent, but there should be more activity coming soon. To be brief, I am no longer working at the restaurant. I'm puzzling over my next move and still cooking barbecue and catering and in love with wood-fire cookery as much, if not more than ever. I am doing more baking than ever and have my post on bagels coming up....A big thanks to everyone that has been so supportive!

These are leftover mashed potatoes with melted butter on the bottom and top. We fried the pancake on the stovetop and then put it under the broiler to brown the top. Delicious and a great way to use up mashed taters, which don't reheat so well.

TUNE O' THE DAY: LUCINDA WILLIAMS, PLAN TO MARRY
FROM LITTLE HONEY, LOST HIGHWAY, 2008

Rockaway Beach: Corn, Corn and Puddin'

2009-01-03T22:05:00.012-05:00

Recipe Requested by Robert of the superlative WhiteTrashBBQ Blog.

Adapted from a recipe in The New York Times Heritage Cookbook by Jean Hewitt 1992 edition from Wings Books. Originally published in 1972 (the year I was born).

2 Cups cooked corn
1/4 Cup minced shallots
3 Eggs, lightly beaten
2 Tablespoons melted butter
2 Cups milk, scalded
1.5 Teaspoons salt
1/2 Teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 Cups finely grated Asiago cheese

1 Preheat the oven to 325
2 Combine all ingredients then turn into a greased 2 quart baking dish.
3 Set dish in a pan with hot water extending halfway up the sides.
4 Bake 1 hour, replenishing the water, if necessary.

Here Comes A Regular: Fire in the Sky

2009-01-01T10:31:00.004-05:00

Happy new year, my friends!

I don't know where all the time has gone. The year just flew past us. Ups, downs and in-betweens, it certainly hasn't been a smooth time. There's a sun rising far off on the horizon, though. Patience will pay off. There are still moments worth celebrating.

Below are two cell phone pictures of the meal I made for my family as a Christmas brunch-- prime rib with pan jus and asiago corn pudding. We also had spinach sauteed with garlic and mesclun salad with balsamic vinaigrette and ginger and spice molasses cake with homemade whipped cream.

The last picture is from the New York Aquarium in Coney Island. The Jellyfish tanks are spectacular.

The Truly Great Thing: My First Pig at Wildwood BBQ

2008-12-06T20:01:00.003-05:00

This is a 33 pound suckling pig that I cooked for a dinner party of 25 people at Wildwood BBQ. After minimal butchering work inside of her, I injected 2-3 quarts of seasoned liquid including apple juice and rub and a few other items and let her sit for 1/2 an hour to warm up and marinate.

She went into the pit at 225 degrees over oak, apple and hickory for about 7 hours total, including time to rest. I basted about every hour or so using a spray bottle. When she was all done, we replaced her eyes with maraschino cherries and popped the apple in her mouth. I used a ball of foil to hold the jaw at the right aperture.

The Girl Who Lives on Heaven Hill: Dinner 1-2-3

2008-11-13T19:37:00.000-05:00

A quick after work dinner-- chicken marinated in ponzu, ginger, garlic, a pinch of five spice, a 1/2 teaspoon of sesame oil, a splash of vegetable oil for 1/2 hour. Spinach sauteed with garlic and a pinch of nutmeg. Thai-chili garlic and lime fried rice made with leftover texmati rice and a little carrot, celery, onions and garlic. I sweated the carrot, celery, onion and garlic, added some thai garlic chile paste, then the rice and finished with a splash of lime juice.

The Time of the Season: What's your name?

2008-11-10T19:44:00.000-05:00

I have to thank my friend, Robert, over at the ever-splendid WhiteTrashBBQ Blog for reminding me that I had a responsibility to my readers. So....

We polished off this delicious pie that The Wife made with some locally picked apples in what felt like seconds. She just casually threw this together while Hiroshi and I watched the Giants game and inhaled some Texas Red Chili that I made with some leftover smoked brisket that I had in the freezer.

So, do you think this will be enough sauce? This is a delivery I received at my restaurant, Wildwood BBQ just a few days ago.

It's In The Way That You Use It

2008-10-14T18:00:00.000-04:00

And I always thought that it came from cattle....

Do You Believe in Magic?: John Lennon Memories

2008-10-09T09:28:00.001-04:00

John Winston Lennon
9 October 1940 – 8 December 1980

Woman I can hardly express
My mixed emotions at my thoughtlessness
After all I'm forever in your debt
And woman I will try to express
My inner feelings and thankfulness
For showing me the meaning of success

Ooh, well, well
Doo, doo, doo, doo, doo
Ooh, well, well
Doo, doo, doo, doo, doo

Woman I know you understand
The little child inside of the man
Please remember my life is in your hands
And woman hold me close to your heart
However distant don't keep us apart
After all it is written in the stars

Ooh, well, well
Doo, doo, doo, doo, doo
Ooh, well, well
Doo, doo, doo, doo, doo
Well

Woman please let me explain
I never meant to cause you sorrow or pain
So let me tell you again and again and again

I love you, yeah, yeah
Now and forever
I love you, yeah, yeah
Now and forever
I love you, yeah, yeah
Now and forever
I love you, yeah, yeah

Walk on the Ocean: Long time no see...

2008-10-06T05:26:00.000-04:00

I'm still out here....still thinking of you. Can't keep up with the days.

Innocent when you dream

2008-09-04T06:49:00.000-04:00

The bats are in the belfry
the dew is on the moor
where are the arms that held me
and pledged her love before
and pledged her love before

It's such a sad old feeling
the fields are soft and green
it's memories that I'm stealing
but you're innocent when you dream
when you dream
you're innocent when you dream

running through the graveyard
we laughed my friends and I
we swore we'd be together
until the day we died
until the day we died

I made a golden promise
that we would never part
I gave my love a locket
and then I broke her heart
and then I broke her heart

Hooked on a Feeling: BBQ Contest Style Wildwood BBQ

2008-08-30T09:26:00.005-04:00

Below are some sights from the Hudson Valley Ribfest which was held August 15, 16 + 17 in New Paltz, New York. This was Wildwood BBQ's second contest outing.

The pictures are from the New England Barbecue Society grilling contest which was held on Saturday. The Kansas City Barbecue Society bbq contest turn-ins were on Sunday. Pictures from Sunday are coming next. On Saturday we took third in beef steak, 2nd in fish and third overall.

These first two pictures are our sausage entry

A look at Robbie Richter slicing the pork for our entry and a pic of the near finished box

The next two pictures are our beef steak turn-in

Big Lou Elrose cleaning up.

Teenagers from Mars: overeating and margaritas

2008-08-05T19:09:00.001-04:00

Last weekend was a busy weekend of eating. My father, brother, The Wife and I all got together for a relaxing food fest.

There was brisket, and brisket quesadillas with scrambled eggs, caramelized onions, heirloom tomato salsa, cheddar cheese and sour cream. We also fire roasted plum tomatoes and cooked them down to make ketchup for burgers made of sweet sausage and sirloin. I added just a splash or two of Worcestershire and stubbs bbq sauce to the meat and then cooked the burgers over the last embers of the day's cherry wood.

Ghosts of Princes in Towers: See Spot Eat

2008-07-26T12:03:00.004-04:00

We recently had a major celebrity sighting at Wildwood BBQ. To me, one of the biggest stars we could hope to draw. Ray Lampe, aka Dr. BBQ who is the pitmaster/chef behind the food at Justin Timberlake's Southern Hospitality, came in and spent a few hours the other night. It was great to see Ray and he, as always, was gracious and friendly. He is a great ambassador for bbq, a straight shooter, and someone I like to call a friend.

I had dinner at Peter Luger about two weeks ago and it was one of the best meals I have ever had there. I've been going to P.L. for 30 years or so and this really was a meal that transported me through time, matching the highlights of so many meals. The Porterhouse had all of the mineral beef flavor tones and was buttery moist and tender. The Ribeye was equally glorious.

Despite the exultant meal we had at Peter Luger recently, I still felt like cooking some steaks at home the next time I was burning some wood and cooking some 'que. I saw some nice looking shell steaks that were about a pound each, so I cooked them for me and The Wife. These had what was left of my brisket rub for the day on them. It was salt, pepper, cayenne, paprika and some other spices.

We had the steaks with the grilled corn, cherry tomatoes marinated in aged balsamic vinegar, and oven fries tossed with parmesan cheese and fresh oregano.

That's Really Super, Superman: Eating three ways

2008-07-10T21:17:00.003-04:00

My schedule at work has changed again. Starting this past Tuesday, I have been working from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. or so. I am being transitioned to being the 'Receiver' or 'Steward' of the restaurant as well as the Pitmaster. In the morning, I check in deliveries and inspect the product while getting the meat for the day into the smokers and oversee the prep workers in production of ingredients and recipes. In the afternoon I review inventory and prepare the day's orders, except for Thursdays when I have to do the orders through the weekend and into Monday.

On Monday, all of the physical inventory has to be manually counted-- every piece of shredded cheese weighed, all of the cases of garbage bags in the basement counted, every packet of ketchup accounted for. Inventory gets reconciled with sales and purchasing to make sure there are no discrepancies between what was purchased and what has been used or entered into inventory (a.k.a. making sure no one is stealing or wasting excessively).

There's a fine line to be discerned between having enough inventory and being too well stocked-- cost, waste and efficiency all must align. So there's that stress when ordering for three days at a time, and, of course, the physical aspects of moving in and organizing 1,200 pounds of raw meat, a few hundred pounds of produce and a few hundred pounds of dry ingredients and paper products. Not to mention managing a staff.

So, I get tired and, yes, sometimes discouraged, but I always find time to eat.

Brisket

Ancho and Smoked Paprika Rubbed Chicken Breasts that I butterflied and then seasoned and grilled. These went into burritos that included asiago and cheddar cheese, sour cream, bibb lettuce, and a fresh salsa with roasted sweet corn.

Ice Cream Sandwiches that we made with chocolate fudge cookies, coffee ice cream and a hazelnut-chocolate cream filled pirouette cookie.

I Have Found a Way: in the smoke of morning

2008-06-30T10:52:00.002-04:00

My friends, The Wife and I got out of town for a day and we spent the time eating and cooking. We took a break to walk on the beach in the pre-rain fog and mist, letting the big, choppy waves break on our bare feet, feeling the sand pull away beneath us.

I woke up at 6 on Saturday morning and lit a nice fire of Cherry wood and stood in the smoke watching it burn down to coals and waiting for the pit to heat up. We threw on 2 small briskets, 2 racks of babyback ribs and some sausage fatties. At the end of the night, I threw on some burgers made of sirloin and chuck and grilled some asparagus that we served with a white wine, butter and shallot sauce. The cold sides were potato salad and garlic marinated grape tomatoes.

Here're some sights of the foodfest.

SONG OF THE DAY: The Louvin Brothers, "I Have Found a Way"

Read more about the Louvins by clicking here

Visions of Johanna: Just a Touch

2008-06-18T14:37:00.003-04:00

Babyback Ribs fresh from the smoker.
Cellphone Picture
June 8, 2008
Wildwood BBQ
New York, NY

Today's Songs Of The Day: Twofer

The Music Explosion: Little Bit O' Soul
T. Bone Singleton: Hello, Hello

The Music Explosion will appeal to any power pop, or old school rock and roll fans out there. If there are any. T. Bone Singleton is an old-school, Louisiana Swamp Boogie Bluesman, so that should appeal to fans of old-school, Louisiana Swamp Boogie Bluesmen out there, if there are any.

If I continue to get days off, I think there should be one or two updates a week from now on. Viva la blog.

In The Pines: Memories of

2008-06-12T13:30:00.002-04:00

I miss the smell of the salt air mixed with oak and cedar, pine and earth. The sound of the thousands of leaves in the wind, applauding the changing seasons. When I stand still long enough, it feels like time halts, though colors change and the light shifts, perceptibly.

Visiting a familiar place, somewhere that has been the landscape of a large portion of your life, enables you to look into the deep rings of experience encircling memories. Over time, you see the gradual changes to the landmarks that we use to chart our path which have helped shape and define what we ultimately become. Much of this occurs when we aren't looking, of course, and is only realized later, when things start to erode, or decay and fade. When you reach back to grasp them, they are already too far gone.

Today's SONG OF THE DAY: The Smiths, "Please, Please, Please, Let Me Get What I Want"

There's A Light

2008-06-11T12:51:00.000-04:00

Louie Mueller
Taylor, TX

Deep Dark Truthful Mirror: Looking for Life in All the Wrong Places

2008-05-29T12:34:00.002-04:00

Last week, The Wife and I made this delicious Angel Hair with Meatballs. The Meatballs are Beef and Sweet Sausage with garlic, Parmesan, Parsley, etc... The Red Sauce is crushed tomato, garlic, onion, fresh basil, red wine...the usual suspects. This was way better than what I've eaten in a long time. It was based on a Cook's Illustrated recipe that I tweaked a bit.

Since we were celebrating my birthday, some time late in the evening, The Wife threw together a birthday cake-- lemon infused cake with a cream cheese frosting topped with coconut. It may sound like an odd combination, but I loved it.

Meanwhile, life moves on at the restaurant. Each day brings a new challenge, a new chance to test my limits. New learning is around every corner. Some people love the food, some don't. I can't bother with reviews still. I understand their importance but, in too many ways, they are too distracting. Often times I think I am at the limit of my tolerance (heat, stress, etc...) and somehow the dust clears. Just like life.

Today's song pretty much sums up where I'm at...

SONG OF THE DAY: THE MOUNTAIN GOATS, "This Year"
From The Mountain Goats album "The Sunset Tree" on 4AD Records.

Nightswimming: Food everywhere, but nothing to eat

2008-05-12T12:26:00.001-04:00

It's amazing. I'm in the kitchen surrounded by food for 14 hours every day, but never eat. There's no time, and when there is time, nothing seems appealing at that moment. Oh, there's plenty of things I see that I want to grab and gobble throughout the day, but most of it is on the way to a guest's table. Le sigh....

So, by the time I get home at 2-3a.m., I suddenly realize that I need to eat. NOW. Amazingly enough, I don't mind quietly throwing together something-- as long as I don't wake up The Wife. Most people are shocked that I'm willing to cook after a day at the restaurant, but when it's simple and quick, it is painless.

Here's a plate of pasta I made at 3 in the morning when I came home. Some minced onion and garlic, a few tomatoes, some butter and olive oil, Parmesan cheese and sliced string beans. SO GOOD. And, so easy. While the pasta boiled, the sauce came together in a saute'pan. When the pasta was done, I tossed it in the pan with the sauce and threw it in a bowl. Done.

Does it Even Matter?: Life speeds on air

2008-05-01T13:11:00.001-04:00

My people, my people....Life has had the upper hand with me recently. The restaurant eats up 14 hours a day or so-- every day. Days off are merely a concept, not a reality. But the reaction we have gotten since opening has been tremendous.

Eater.com had highlights (and lowlights) of comments so far, here are some of the good--

1) The Good News: White Trash BBQ tries out Wildwood on night numero uno and is an early fan: "The spare ribs, not trimmed but skinned were competition very high quality. I don't think I've ever had a better rib in a restaurant. I was blown away in my first bite...The meat chili was fantastic...The pulled pork sandwich in which the pork is tossed in a sauce before serving was very good. Conversely, the pulled pork served on the piggy platter was left un-sauced and missed the mark flavor wise...Front of the house service was a mixed bag and you could tell that the staff is still learning." [White Trash BBQ]

3) The Mostly Good News: Beef Aficionado was one of the first bloggers to try out the place. Here's his expert opinion: "...the beef brisket was absolutely superb, moist, tender, smoky and delicious...Even better than the brisket was the massive beef short rib...the fact that a restaurant turned out a piece of beef of this quality on their opening night portends well for the future...The two home made sausage varieties, Texas style and Jalepeno, where rather lackluster and while juicy lacked flavor, especially the former...I was also not a big fan of the sauces on offer." [Beef Aficionado]

4) The Good News: The Chowhounders have had a chance to chime in, and they are pretty much all fans. A representative review: "The brisket was the best I've ever had, the pulled pork was one of the best, and the spare ribs were great, but not the best, could have used more rub or sauce. The cornbread was great as was the mac and cheese...The tables for 2 were not spaced apart at all, very "cozy", and you needed a lot of patience to deal with the servers, they were eager to please but really had no idea what they were doing." [Chowhound]

Since we still have to put out the best food possible, good reviews may bring people in, but I'm not sure that they help me to read them....

Restaurant interior photo: pigtrip.net
Beef Rib: Beef Afficionado

SONG OF THE DAY: Myracle Brah, "Does it Even Matter?"

What's New Pussycat?: Recent Eatings and whatnot

2008-04-08T12:34:00.001-04:00

Hey kiddos!

We're moving into our restaurant space slowly but surely. Yesterday was my first full day in the space and we started receiving deliveries. Construction is still hot and heavy, but maybe we can cook by the end of the week.

Meanwhile, here're some recent eatings from home.

Ponzu and Ginger Grilled Pork Chops with Red Coconut and Roasted Potato.

While the chops marinated I roasted the potatoes and made the coconut sauce which had shallot, ginger, lime peel, garlic, mexican chile powder, white pepper, sea salt, drained/diced tomatoes and jalapeno, 5-spice, chives, and yellow pepper. I first added the tomato and pepper after sauteing the other aromatics, then the coconut milk. I simmered everything, passed it through the chinois and reduced it a bit more before adding the chives. The last piece was a pat of lime butter just before serving.

The Speed of Sound: Recent Fooding

2008-03-21T12:30:00.000-04:00

A few sights from the kitchen at home and then the next update coming this weekend will complete the bbq crawl story.

Fire Roasted Poblanos for the baby spinach and bibb lettuce salad

Chicken, Beets and Potatoes from the oven

Peppers, Leeks, Garlic and Red Onions to make the condiment for the chicken

A Burnt End appetizer....snacks for the chef

Running on E: BBQ Crawl Day 2

2008-03-11T11:46:00.005-04:00

O.k., so Kansas City was different than I remembered it. But, the last time I was there I hadn't eaten nearly as much 'que as I have by now-- particularly really good food. I think my taste in bbq has changed, also. I care much more about how the meat is cooked and presented than I do about sauces and rubs.

The last 5 years of regular bbq cooking and eating has led me to a firm belief-- keep it simple, use good cuts of meat and cook it right. That's all that matters-- the best rub or sauce in the world can't save a mediocre cut of meat or one that isn't cooked well. They can add sparkle, but you can't polish a...well, you know.

So, here we go.........

Day 2: Austin, TX

We woke up, jumped in the car and were one our way to Stubb's.

Next up, House Park Bar-B-Que, a tiny little shack of a place open for about 3 hours each day-- from 11-2 or so. They basically serve sandwiches-- and they're some of the best I've had.

I'm skipping ahead to the Salt Lick in Driftwood, TX-- we hit Sam's, Ironworks and more that day, but Salt Lick was pretty special. It's out in the middle of a wooded, ranging area with little else around. Time seems to still here. There's a little running stream visible from the outer dining room. There is no liquor here, so pack a cooler and bring it with you.

Next up: Lockhart, Llano and more....

Back to BBQ Crawl Day 1: Click Here

Judy + The Dream of Horses: Catching Up, Slowing Down

2008-03-10T11:53:00.001-04:00

Sometimes, you get so tired that sleep is nothing more than punctuation, a pause between two days that are like inter-connected sentences.

The restaurant opening is almost in sight-- it seems we are holding an April opening date clutched in our fist and not opening the fingers for anything. More to come on that.

Here's a little recent food action around my place. Then we'll get back to the bbq crawl updates.

These are herb and chili dusted chicken breasts on a white bean and potato puree with a garlic confit whipped in and scented with smoked spanish paprika. On top is a double smoke kielbasa and roasted onion compote. The last touch is a parsley and rice vinegar sauce. I served this with a rosemary and garlic french bread that I baked.

And I Remember Every Kiss: BBQ Crawl Day 1

2008-03-06T12:16:00.002-05:00

Ok Cubbies, here we go with a few sights and smells from the 'que crawl. This is not every joint or every dish. Some have been spared or I'm being too lazy. I'll leave that to you to decide. We're going in order from Kansas City--near chronologically-- to the end of the road in TX. Most visits were 30 minutes to an hour. First the sights then the report when I have a few minutes. We begin at Arthur Bryant's at 10 am on Monday. We hit the ground at 8:30 Kansas City time. After Jack Stack we were on our way back to the airport to depart for Austin on our 5:30pm flight.

Arthur Bryant's -- The grandaddy of them all

Gate's BBQ -- "Hi, may I help you!?"

L.C.'s -- Old school all the way

Oklahoma Joe's-- The new school with class and a fill-up

Fiorella's Jack Stack-- The family dinner spot with cloth napkins and smoke

Drive on to BBQ Crawl Day 2: Click Here

One Moment in Time: A weekend of smoke

2008-03-03T11:50:00.000-05:00

I'm running out the door, as it seems I do most of the time these days. But, I managed to get out in the smoke this weekend. Here's a quick peek. The bacon turned out surprisingly well.

In the Morning: Heading on a BBQ Crawl

2008-02-24T21:08:00.002-05:00

I'm off to Kansas City, my friends. From there we push on to Austin, then out towards the Hill Country-- we'll see Llano and Lockhart, I suspect.

It'll be great to be back in K.C. Hopefully there'll be lots of pics.

I made Amy a special dinner today because I leave town on her birthday.

Hold My Life

2008-02-21T21:51:00.000-05:00

The Replacements: Hold My Life
From the album, Tim on Sire Records, 1985

Bread: Taste of home

2008-02-18T10:34:00.000-05:00

Made some bread this weekend, instead of getting out and firing up the smoker. My Flying Pig Farm pork bellies will have to wait for a little while. I have them in a cure and will have to pop them in the freezer for now.

Here's bread, instead.

Black Cab: Dark City Streets in the Rain, Homemade Bacon and more

2008-02-15T20:48:00.000-05:00

My friends, my friends....Tonight is a night of sentimentalism and relief that it is Friday. I need to breathe and get my head together in the smoke this weekend. I don't care if it is cold, or damp. The quiet sounds of the world wash away in the smoke and as my eyes sting and tear, my nose runs, I will sip my bourbon and feel the warmth inside me.

The restaurant world is grinding slowly these days. I feel evermore in the swing of things and each day continues to bring the tiny embarrassments and awkward moments that are the hallmarks of the learning process. Much of it isn't fun, and the work is grueling, physical and repetitive. I feel more aware of what I'm doing and how it interfaces with everything else that is happening. Kitchen sense, as some call it, comes gradually-- being aware of things you have in the oven and on the stove while you are running around doing three other things without using a timer or clock, all the while knowing that even one minute too much can turn something from perfection to garbage-- and every penny and every second counts.

In the spirit of these days in the kitchen, I leave you with a cut by the astounding Sharon Joes + The Dap Kings. Truly channeling Otis, Aretha with the MGs and the Uptown Horns.

Sharon Jones + The Dap Kings: Humble Me

It makes me think what a killer gig it would be to see them with my friends in the Ex Caminos.

Sitting in the Park: Spring Previews and Oil Burns

2008-02-06T09:50:00.000-05:00

So, where were we?

I've been fighting off some kind of bronchial/stomach flu or something for weeks. I came back to work this week hoping for a blast of energy that never came. You can't be tired in the kitchen, you'll just get trampled. Too much needs to be done.

My dad was in the hospital, which was an additional distraction and worry. Hopefully this Friday will be the end of his time dealing with the hospital. The Wife and I will be there with him on Friday.

I haven't had much time to take pictures of anything recently, but here's the soup I had to fortify myself against the flu bug, or whatever. It's chicken broth that I enriched by infusing it with some mushrooms, carrots, celery, onion, garlic, turnip, and put through the chinois, returned to the pot and reduced slightly, then I added some orzo and served it with toasted Ciabatta that was rubbed with garlic cloves and smeared with butter.

Last weekend, I smoked a case of pork butts (~60 pounds or 10 butts) and 40 pounds of chicken quarters (leg and thigh) and grilled 40 pounds of boneless chicken breasts w/ a homemade sweet soy glaze and 3 dozen multi-colored sweet peppers, with macaroni and cheese and coleslaw, 2 different kinds of vinegar sauces for my cousin's birthday/super bowl/another year of cancer beaten party in Brooklyn for 125 guests.

It was great to cook some barbecue again after cooking in the restaurant kitchen the last few weeks. Unfortunately, we weren't able to start until around 2 pm on Saturday for a party starting at 3 the next day for an event that was 3 hours drive away. That left us few hours to cook, clean, pack up and be on the road. Also, they had one oven at the house in Brooklyn and we needed hot food when the guests got there. I think we were asleep by 3:30 and up at 7 or so and on the road by 10.

All in all, it worked out and was big fun all around. It didn't help fight the sick bugs off, or to get back to work refreshed. It's all worth it, though, for sure. Again, no picture of the actual food, unfortunately, but here's all the pans laid out before the party, from right to left, the grilled chicken breasts (sliced in strips in the pan), the smoked chicken 1/4s (cut into leg/thigh portions), pulled pork, macaroni and cheese, coleslaw and grilled vegetables (not in the chafer and slightly hard to see).

I'm off to cook some boneless leg of lamb, a pork shoulder and some other items to prepare for a restaurant tasting this week and to deliver the lamb to the restaurant where I'm currently working as a test for a new item-- we would cook the lamb at the bbq joint, then deliver it to the other restaurant for their use. Cool.

I leave you w/ a hip new item: Vampire Weekend: Campus

They're a relatively new NYC band of college age cool kids that forge an African rhythm to punk-indie americanism (think world beat modest mouse). It'll be interesting to see what happens with them.

Friday Night at the Drive-In Bingo: Where does the time go?

2008-01-23T06:08:00.000-05:00

My peoples, I'm still out here.

Demolition has begun on the restaurant and I'm still cooking at a restaurant in Union Square. I'm so tired, burned and cut up. This is fun!

I've had the opportunity to learn nearly every facet of running a restaurant-- I've worked at the grill, the saute' station, the deep fryer, the prep kitchen, the butchery station....done the paperwork (not fun, but interesting), calculating the price per plate of a dish, placing and receiving orders for merchandise.....and I'm only in my third week. Wow.

I leave you with a tune from Swedish pop genius, Jens Lekman. His name may not be familiar, but the musical genres he hopscotches will most likely ring a bell. The lyrics are romantic, clever and refreshing.

Jens Lekman: Friday Night at the Drive-in Bingo

Do Anything You Wanna Do: Of life and cheffery

2008-01-13T10:47:00.000-05:00

Ahhhh, a day off. When I was in the kitchen, I didn't want to leave, but now that I'm home, I don't want to go back. This is the tension that I've noticed-- the two lives cannot mix-- kitchen and outside the kitchen. I become absorbed, enmeshed in the activity and the rhythms and sounds of the kitchen...the smells.

I'm learning so much and running so much. Lifting so much. Bending so much. Carrying so much. Moving out of the way so much. Falling behind so much. Doing everything slower than everyone else. So much. Standing around and looking like a lost puppy....so much.

I'm learning it, though. I'm understanding much more of the language that once seemed so foreign; the blur of bodies moving now seems to have much more purpose. I know many of the techniques and skills that I need, but now have to make them more confident and expedient. That will take time.

All of this is to say that, as much as I was confident about my bbq and knowledge of cooking, I had never worked in a professional kitchen, let alone one that puts out this high volume of food, so I was uncertain about giving up my day job and whether I could make this transition. It's starting to seem like maybe, just maybe, the gamble (so to speak) was worth it. More than I imagined.

Click Here to hear Eddie & The Hot Rods: Do Anything You Wanna Do

Early Morning Cold Taxi: Cold Smoke

2008-01-05T16:50:00.000-05:00

These posts have been more and more sporadic, huh? Well, I'm afraid it might be that way for a while-- just a few posts here and there but, most likely, not daily....I'll do my best. This one goes out to my buddy, Gary, from the venerable PigTrip.Net where he blogs knowledgeably about just about every and any bbq joint or event happening in the Northeast.

I start 'cooking full time' for the first time in my life on Monday. I put cooking in quotes because, although I've catered and cooked barbecue for a long time, this is my first restaurant job and there's much to learn. I'll be doing a fair amount of training for the next month or so, as we lead to the opening of the restaurant. I think they're gonna really make me earn my duckets...

In the meantime, I went out to breathe in the smoke from Wubby and while I was at it, I cold smoked some cheese, garlic and (yikes!) tofu. It was a nice, cool and breeze free afternoon which was a big help.

I tried to keep it on the lower side and, when needed, I could open the vertical door entirely and within seconds the temp would drop to a more desirable point. I choked the stack as needed to reduce flames and keep the wood barely smoking, or with the tiniest flame possible.

Loaded Up:

I started a very small fire of a few nuggets of lump charcoal and split and sawed some logs of cherry down to kindling and chunks, inserted the steel baffle between the horizontal and vertical (where the goods were placed as you can see above) sections of the smoker. I cleaned the shelves, but they weren't pristine, so I used a few layers of cheesecloth (doh!) underneath the product to limit the grease marks. They were in the smoke, and rotated occasionally, for about 4+ hours at a temperature between 40-80 degrees at any variable moment. If the cheese 'sweats' try to bring the temp down and gently blot the moisture away.

Chugging Along:

I like to wrap the cheese and let it rest for about a day before using it, but we sliced up a piece of the sharp cheddar and used it on top of some yellow rice that night. We packed the rice into little molds with some olive oil and put the cheese on top, then put it in the broiler for a few moments. It was so tasty. The little kernels on top got toasty and married with the cheese and the rest was moist and steamy underneath.